A string of strong swells will bring big waves to challenge experienced surfers in Orange County and some other areas — but also hazards for beach crowds hitting the coast.
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Summer has already kicked off with beefy surf up and down the coastline, with moderate southern hemisphere swells bringing waves in the 3-to 5-foot range at many spots the past week.
And another swell from the south will bring even bigger waves, with forecasters calling for some standout spots to see surf in the 8-to 12-foot range by early in the week of June 7.
The swell on Saturday, which brought moderate 3-to 5-foot surf, was diminishing by the evening and into Sunday, said Sebastian Westerink, meteorologist for the National Weather Service.
“It looks like the south swell we are seeing right now will briefly weaken. There will still be some decent sets for south, southwest-facing beaches,” he said. “Then, once we get into Tuesday, especially Wednesday and into Thursday, that south swell is going to come back stronger than what we are experiencing now.”
That means risks for rip currents and rougher seas are heightened, he said, especially near rocks and jetties.
“Just be careful when you’re close to them and note that the conditions will be rough,” he said. “Usually, the more energy we have with a swell, the higher the risk there is for rip currents. Watch out for those. Head the warnings you see at the beaches.”
While many south-facing beaches will have 5-to 8-foot waves, areas like the Wedge will have higher sets, he said.
Huntington Beach-based forecasting website Surfline.com gives a more detailed look at the incoming swells, which could bring 8-to 12-foot surf from Tuesday, June 9, through Thursday, June 11.
Waves will stay large into next weekend, with surf in the 6-to 8-foot range, according to Surfline.
Surf forecaster Kevin Wallis took a closer look at the incoming swell, which was recording 50-foot seas en route to Southern California.
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It could be one of the largest southern hemisphere in years, he said, tracking similarly to an early season mid-March swell.
The hot zones will be Orange County and northernmost San Diego County and parts of northern LA county, though areas of the South Bay could be a few feet smaller than the best areas, Wallis said.
“March was impressive, early next week looks even bigger,” Wallis said. “It will be the largest southern hemisphere swell of the season to date, surpassing even the pumping south, southwest swell we saw in early March this year.”
Forerunners will be on the rise Monday, bringing extra surge and stronger currents — especially important to note for less experienced surfers, he said.
Top spots by mid-week could see 15 feet in size, and the Wedge could be even larger.
USA Surfing coach Ryan Simmons has been watching the swell closely, with national championships happening June 7 to June 12 in Oceanside.
“It’s going to be an exciting week with a giant south swell on the horizon,” he said in an online update.
Plenty of swell will be sticking around the following weekend for school divisions competing for the National Scholastic Surfing Association national championships from June 12 – 14 at Salt Creek.
Beachgoers should always check in with a lifeguard for any hazards and make sure to swim near staffed towers.
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