A swell expected to be the largest summer south swell in years filled into Southern California beaches on Tuesday, June 9, bringing hazardous conditions as lifeguards send out warnings to beachgoers to use extreme caution during the event.
Read more NASA unveils 4 astronauts to fly on Artemis III mission
The National Weather Service issued a Beach Hazard Statement for the Southern California coast through Thursday afternoon — the largest waves are anticipated Tuesday and Wednesday.
Because of the swell direction, Orange County will be hit hardest by the largest surf, with some areas are expected to reach 8 feet to 10 feet, others up to 15 feet. Waves were so big at Newport Beach and in Dana Point Tuesday morning they were overtopping rock jetties. In Huntington Beach and San Clemente, the messy, wild waves licked the bottom of the pier structure.
In Laguna Beach an advisory went out that the west parking lot at Aliso Beach has been closed due to the large surf and flooding. Lost Pier Café and the parking to the east remained open.
Laguna Beach lifeguards put it bluntly: When it doubt, don’t go out.
At the Wedge, waves in the 20-foot range are possible at the mutant surf break, which can double in size because of the way the waves refract off of the rock jetty and “wedge” up with another wave.
In San Diego, the swell was expected to reach 4 feet to 7 feet, with sets up to 8 feet, with high rip current risks, the NWS warned. In Los Angeles County, waves in the 3-foot to 6-foot range with sets of 7 feet and larger are expected at south-facing beaches.
“There is an increased risk of ocean drowning. Rip currents can pull swimmers and surfers out to sea. Waves can wash people off beaches and rocks, and capsize small boats nearshore,” NWS officials warn.
The swell will slowly ease Thursday, but will stay sizable Friday and through the weekend.
“Remain out of the water to avoid hazardous swimming conditions,” NWS officials said.
If you are caught in a rip current, yell for help. Remain calm and do not exhaust yourself and stay afloat while waiting for help, an NWS warning advised. If you have to swim out of a rip current, swim parallel to shore and back toward the beach when possible. Do not attempt to swim directly against a rip current as you will tire quickly.
At the Wedge, spectators showed up at dawn and filled in through the day to get a glimpse at the chaos. Dozens of wave riders, bodyboarders and surfers, attempted the steep, shallow drop as the peaks formed, some propelling down the building-size waves with expertise, others wiping out to the gasp of spectators who got a front-row seat on the sand to the carnage.
Read more UK, France and other Western nations issue new sanctions on Israeli settlers in the West Bank
When the blackball hit, meaning no boards allowed in the water between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m., body surfers put on their fins to take on the beastly wave.
Newport Beach lifeguards staffed up for the big-swell event, filling all lifeguard towers, patrol units and rescue vessels, officials said.
“Beachgoers are urged to use caution. Always swim near an open lifeguard tower, check with a lifeguard before entering the water and pay attention to tower flags indicating current ocean and conditions,” Newport Beach’s warning reads.
There’s also a worry about flooding of beachfront homes on the Newport Peninsula. The city sent out heavy machinery to create sand berms in front of the homes to try to keep the ocean water at bay, but severe erosion in recent years means less sand buffer to safeguard the homes.
Newport Beach resident and bodysurfer Sean Starky said the sand at the big-wave break has been eroding for years, making the flooding hazard even more risky.
“At some point, the swell is going to end up on the houses,” he said.
The city is offering residents and property owners sandbags at the city Corporate Yard, 592 Superior Ave., to help prepare for potential coastal impacts. The coastal flooding concerns will continue as high tides increase midweek to 5.3 feet at 6 p.m. on Wednesday, growing to 5.8 at about 6:40 p.m. on Thursday.
Los Angeles County lifeguards issued a warning of head-high to overhead waves at south-facing beaches.
“If you plan on visiting the beach, take a moment to understand the risks and assess conditions by talking to a lifeguard before entering the water,” a department announced said. “Proper education makes all the difference and has the ability to prevent emergencies before they happen.”
The best bet for safe waters for beachgoers with small children will be north of the Newport Pier, Seal Beach, Baby Beach in the Dana Point Harbor or the lagoon beach at Newport Dunes.
Read more FDA OKs first new sunscreen ingredient in more than 25 years